windows New PC build Soon

[Jobba]

This is what I've put together for $750. I added in a monitor and an SSD into the price. If you need Windows 10 or a mouse and keyboard, tack on an extra $120. If you don't need the SSD, scrap it and save $60. 

 

CPU - i3-7100 $120; I'm probably going to get a lot of hate for this but realistically there is like maybe a 20% difference performance wise and $80 difference price wise when compared to an i5-7500. It's a solid dual core with 4 threads. Paired with a GTX 1050 ti, you can hit 40fps on Witcher 3 (An aggressive game) with high settings and 50+ on Medium!. Not bad considering what you're paying.

- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCESRJX/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

 

CPU cooler - Cooler master hyper 212 Evo $30; It does the job and it's cheap.

- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005O65JXI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

 

Graphics Card - GTX 1050 ti  $160; Solid card, you don't need to worry about your CPU bottlenecking it either. 

- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M6Y671T/ref=ox_sc_act_title_11?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

 

MB -  Gigabyte H110M $60; MB really doesn't matter that much, they're all the same. Just get one with USB 3.0's and you'll be good. This is a non-overclock and has 2 RAM slots @ 2400mhz. - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0165YUDTM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A9RRFZDGAXG22&psc=1

 

RAM - 8gbs Ballistix Sport $60; 8gbs of 2400mhz ram, should be enough.

-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UFBZOVE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_10?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

 

HDD - WD 1tb 7200RPM $40 OR SSD - 120gb Sandisk $60; If you want, scrap the WD and get the Sandisk or vice versa. You'll have to choose between speed and space here. Or you can do both.

SSD - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F9G414U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

HDD - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0088PUEPK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_9?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

 

Case - Rosewill ATX Mid-Tower $50; Cheap and does the job, plus it looks kinda cool.

- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IT0TDY6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

 

ODD - IF YOU NEED ONE. Which you might if you're gonna reinstall Windows 10 using a disc. $14

- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MOUBYDQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

 

Monitor - Viewsonic VX2257; 1080P, 2ms, HDMI, Freesync. I should of gotten this when I built my PC. $110

- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018MYT3YO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

 

PSU - EVGA 500w Bronze 80+; Solid brand. $40

- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DZ6R9GE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

 

This should be a solid <$800 build. If you've got any questions or doubts, ask away!!

[Vanaraud]

Asus z170 Pro Gaming is a great mother board for about $125.00 USD

I don´t think that Intel mobo and AMD CPU will work good together.

To answer the question about mobo. I´ve not heard that certain mobos will be more upgrade proof, even the fact that Ryzen2 will be supported by AM4 socket is questionable till the release.

If you plan to OC, then check that the heatsink on the mobo is beefy. Also check if RAM is supported in QVL. And ofc check the extras you would need: usb3, m2 SSD ports etc...

 

About Jobbas post: Nvidia GPU-s don´t support AMDs Freesync, you can still use the monitor just fine, just FS is useless in that case. But from my experience, simulators(rally, stealth, generally non FPS games) run better with FS.

 

If you are planning to get a 100-series mobo, then be sure it has latest BIOS already installed. Else you need to get an older CPU and install new BIOS(mobo can be bricked, lost my A bios, now running on backup B bios).

 

i3 might be a good choice for budget build, but some games(Far Cry pops into my mind) might stutter badly. Also there are even better alternatives: http://www.pcgamer.com/intel-pentium-g4560-review/ though it´s pleagued by same problems as i3.

 

On a micro ATX build 1 RAM stick is a good idea, leaves 2nd slot for future upgrades.

[-=HipKat=-]

I don´t think that Intel mobo and AMD CPU will work good together.

To answer the question about mobo. I´ve not heard that certain mobos will be more upgrade proof, even the fact that Ryzen2 will be supported by AM4 socket is questionable till the release.

If you plan to OC, then check that the heatsink on the mobo is beefy. Also check if RAM is supported in QVL. And ofc check the extras you would need: usb3, m2 SSD ports etc...

 

About Jobbas post: Nvidia GPU-s don´t support AMDs Freesync, you can still use the monitor just fine, just FS is useless in that case. But from my experience, simulators(rally, stealth, generally non FPS games) run better with FS.

 

If you are planning to get a 100-series mobo, then be sure it has latest BIOS already installed. Else you need to get an older CPU and install new BIOS(mobo can be bricked, lost my A bios, now running on backup B bios).

 

i3 might be a good choice for budget build, but some games(Far Cry pops into my mind) might stutter badly. Also there are even better alternatives: http://www.pcgamer.com/intel-pentium-g4560-review/ though it´s pleagued by same problems as i3.

 

On a micro ATX build 1 RAM stick is a good idea, leaves 2nd slot for future upgrades.

Yep, somehow I missed that he said AMD

[Mr.Karizmatic]

Here are some motherboard which are compatible with ryzen 5 1600x 

 

1.MSI Gaming AMD Ryzen B350 DDR4 VR Ready HDMI USB 3 ATX Motherboard (B350 TOMAHAWK ARCTIC)

 

2.MSI Gaming AMD Ryzen B350 DDR4 VR Ready HDMI USB 3 ATX Motherboard (B350 PC MATE)

 

3. Asus B250F Strix Gaming - ROG - LGA1151 - 7th Generation MotherBoard (DDR4 Upto 64GB 2400+, RGB Aura, 3D Printing, Dual M.2, Full ATX Board)

 

 

MSI B350M GAMING PRO Amd Ryzen B350 Ddr4 Vr Ready Hdmi Usb 3 Micro-Atx Gaming Motherboard "

 

 

MSI Gaming AMD Ryzen B350 DDR4 VR Ready HDMI USB 3 ATX Motherboard (B350 PC MATE)

 

 

MSI B350M MORTAR AMD RYZEN Socket AM4 7th Gen Athlon DDR4 USB 3.1 M-ATX Motherboard - Black

[Mr.Karizmatic]

My final build.

 

https://in.pcpartpicker.com/user/mrkarizmatic/saved/xGdsYJ

 

and benchmark when i add 2 8GB corsair rams v 1 8gb corsair 

 

http://www.userbenchmark.com/PCBuilder/Custom/S52067-M264514.153864.39279.104952vsS52067-M264514.153864.39279.89452?tab=RAM

[Vanaraud]

This is the newer one: https://in.pcpartpicker.com/product/3hkwrH/corsair-power-supply-cp9020102na it´s design is improved a lot over the past generation.

[Mr.Karizmatic]

This is the newer one: https://in.pcpartpicker.com/product/3hkwrH/corsair-power-supply-cp9020102na it´s design is improved a lot over the past generation.

 

12k for 550w dam. i shall stick with under 5k for this.

[Buckwild]

You'll also need: Internal Disk DVD Drive, Must be SATA, To install Operating System.

[Mr.Karizmatic]

You'll also need: Internal Disk DVD Drive, Must be SATA, To install Operating System.

 

i need a good monitor though. 22" or 26" i think. 

[-=HipKat=-]

i need a good monitor though. 22" or 26" i think. 

G owith 26+. Both mine are 22's and they're OK, but a bigger monitor would be better

[Xernicus]

12k for 550w dam. i shall stick with under 5k for this.

I have to stress that the number one part you do not want to cheap out on is the PSU. The PSU you've chosen will be good for this build however. If you want to think future upgrades, go with a 650 watt.

 

-Honestly with that CPU, I'd suggest fan cooling- a Noctua/Cooler Master/Arctic cooler will do the same job (and cool the mobo!) for a cheaper price. I like arctic coolers myself.

-That model of the 1060 is a POS. It has no back plate and probably will warp and fail under heat if you use liquid CPU cooling. Go with ASUS or EVGA rather than Zotac.

-And regarding the monitor, that 1060 will choke with a 26" monitor if it has over 1440p resolution. You can downscale, but it will probably look like sh!t. I'd suggest 22-24" 1080p for the best performance, 1440p for the flashiest "keep up with the joneses" lifestyle.

 

Otherwise, that's a good build- especially the mobo. Some folks may say otherwise, but you don't want to skimp on the mobo just like the PSU. Sure, your system will work... but your clock/bus speeds might throttle, you won't be able to overclock, the BIOS/UEFI could be shit and not write properly to the EEPROM.... just avoid under $100 mobos period. I've learned this the hard way.