Rant #1: Games for Windows Live Marketplace
Once upon a time there was this boy named Onion.....and he punched a hole through his monitor and shat in his computer fan THE END !!!!
FACK YOU WINDOWS LIVE MARKETPLACE
I was completely naive like a stupid little onion looking for a 5 cent gumball. Ever since the beginning of December, Microsoft has been trying to relaunch "Games for Windows Live" by selling a new game everyday for 99 cents. Of course since moi is quite le cheap asssse (yes that is french. They always put an e at the end of everything for some crazy reason), I decided to buy "Blacklight Tango Down"
Wow what a bargain I thought. All I had to do was beat up that hobo across the street for some pocket change and I could buy a game (which I did. The hobo didn't survive unfortunately). Well fack was I wrong. So SO SOOOO WRONG.
First thing that happened was I had to setup a Games for Windows Live account. Okay no problem since I already had an account. Then I had to agree to some agreement. No problem. Then I put in my credit card info..etc and before I could buy, "You have to log in to your xbox live account to sign an agreement before you can buy the game."
WTFF ARE YOU JOKING ME !! What type of stupid bullshit is this !! Why the fack do I have to go to xbox live to sign an agreement if the game isn't even on xbox. It is on facking PC !! What happens if the individual doesn't have an xbox live account (lawl to my friend because he was like "what the holy hell....."). So wait I have to have 2 types of accounts, go to 2 different sites, agree to 2 sets of agreements and then go back to the marketplace site to pay in order to download the game. Alright lets calm down Onion.....lets punch some squirrels and chill .....okay so after going through all that bullshit, I finally purchaced Blackhawk Tangooo Downn (woopppdeedooo)
So I wait 2 hrs for it to download and install. I go into the game and first thing that happens....this windows live tab pops out blocking the screen with a stupid cheerful text "Welcomes to Windows Live you Clown f***er blah blah blah. Click Okay to see the features". So since there is no other option, I click okay, and then a stupid internet explorer pop up appears minimizing the game. I go back into the game and the mouse cursor turns invisible and it asks me to login. GODD son of a....
So I randomly click until it highlights the Windows live sign in bar and from there I just type up my info. Then it takes 2 mins just to login and get my profile !!! After that the facking thing patches for 8 mins and then after it is done patching it tells me "Sorry Patching has Failed. Missing files etc etc etc etc etc etc etc. Please uninstall the game. Hahaha pwned biatch."
Fack ye old sake how thy bullshit must I be triffling with !!! (Shakespeare language for "You stupid facking Windows live Marketplace")
So at the end of the day, I spent over 3-4 hrs and I still haven't played my 99 cent shitty ass game. Why the hell is it so difficult to buy a game. For facks sake it is easier to torrent this shit !!! Why is piracy increasing? It is because some jack ass invented *Games for Windows Live* that is why !!!!
I rather torrent every shitty game they sell than put up with this shit !! I rather eat rotten bananas and play Donkey Kong "monkey porn" edition. Ya that is how ape this is. HELL I rather buy a Mac to play games !!! (no I am joking. I am not that stupid yet).
Onion is still waiting to re-download Blackhawk Tango Down
TOP 5 MOST DISAPPOINTING GAMES OF 2010
Fallout: New Vegas
Woohooo a new Fallout game right? Damn that is going to be awesome. I hope they fixed all the bugs and glitches that were in the last game.
Few years later...THEY DIDN"T DO FACKING SHIT !! FACKKK YOUU SON OF A BIATCHES !!! I RATHER SHIT MYSELF AND PLAY PEGGLE THAN THISS. I paid $40 for this !! I rather get a blowjob by a squirrel and eat a dead raccoon full of aids you @#$%@%@##^@#%@#%@#%#%@
First day I play Fallout New Vegas. I go to Primm to do a quest, and the guy I had to save from being raped by 30 bandits.....just shoots me in the leg for no facking reason. As a result I had to kill the facker...Quest failed GG !! (WTFFF. Why the hell did he agro me for no reason !!!).
Second day I walk into an abandoned rocket facility and guess what? Lag lag lag fps drop like crazy. I go on forums and ppl with a HD 5970 "wtf I am getting 30 fps in this area". Fack that slideshow !!!.
Third day I enter a room and the next thing I know my character is magically encumbered and can barely move. Wait whatt? I am only carrying 40 out of the maximum 280 pounds that I could carry !! So I go back outside, save the game, restart and hope it gets fixed. Nothing. Still moving like a snail !!! And I can't load the autosave either because each time you enter a door the facking game autosaves on you (what type of stupid game autosaves everytime you enter a door !!). Fack this shit !!
So if there is anything to be learned from this. If you are glitched, do not walk through the door or it overwrites your save file !!!! (and the glitch will still be there when you load the file each time)
The whole facking game is just a copy of Crackdown 1, except now the city looks a heck of a lot more duller. Infact it has less content than the original and is repetative (there is no enemy that is challenging) and the "quests" or missions feel like they are the same thing over and over again. All you do is clear some locations, light some beacons and close some freak holes. THAT IS THE WHOLE GAME ! Makes you wonder wtf were they doing all this time.
Also why the fack is the targetting system targetting non threatening objects like cars? What is the point of this? (FFS). I really can't say much except that this game is one of the worst games I ever seen on the face of the earth. Sure there are like a couple new weapons and cars and shit but it is still the same facking game as Crackdown 1 except with more glitches !!!! (there is no improvement. Infact Crackdown 2 is worse than Crackdown 1) Might as well play the demo of Crackdown 2 than buy the actual game (because you wouldn't be missing anything).
Castlevania: Lords of Shadows
Why the disappointment? BECAUSE IT ISN"T CASTLEVANIA !!!
Castlevania has been best at is platforming and strutting your whip. But this game isn't anything like that !! Hell you could have called it "Chuck Norris at Disneyland" and it would have made more sense than this title !! It isn't a bad game I admit (it is actually pretty decent for gameplay), but even having the word Castlevania in it makes it disappointing. It would have been more appropriate to call it "God of War 3" clone. The story isn't really related to any of the other Castlevania games so I wonder why they didn't just make it a new separate title instead of trying to milk the franchise (it is like if I changed the title of "Call of Duty Black Ops" to "Pokemon Crystal Black" and tried to sell it).
Also considering there is no form of platforming in the game (well very little) most of the time all you are doing is mashing the same buttons to kill everything in your way (and it gets annoying and repetitive after a while). The worst part though is all these quick time events. Nobody likes quicktime events. Especially when they determine whether or not you kill the boss. And if you aren't pressing it at the exact moment, the boss regains hp and almost kills you with an unavoidable attack (wow that is just great).
Maybe I am just too old fashioned and an old Castlevania fan, but throwing the Castlevania title on a game that has little originality and uses borrowed mechanics from other previous games in the past (like Shadow of the Colossus and God of War) is what makes this a big disappointment.
Like Fallout: New Vegas and Castlevania: LOS, this wasn't exactly a bad game, but what makes it truly disappointing is how overhyped it was. So will all due respect, FACK YOU PETER MOLENEUX !!! You overhype the shit out of your games and same with facking review websites. I go buy it and then I feel regret each time !! (maybe I am a sucker for RPG's but still doesn't mean you need to get my hopes so high just to have them crushed).
Despite the hype, I admit the game was pretty good. The combat was somewhat tedious, but this time the gave you a deeper sense of immersion and the story was actually pretty concise and well plotted and some of the quests actually did go above and beyond my expectations (I would give it an above average rating). But what I really liked was that the choice system wasn't so much as "black" vs "white" or "good" vs "evil". It felt like as you progressed more of the choices felt "gray" and regardless of what you chose, there were dire consequences that would shape the landscape and lives of the citizens of Albion.
So wait why is it disappointment then? It is because the whole facking game and its plot shits itself in the last 20 mins !!! It feels like they rushed the whole damn ending with the boss battle being completely unoriginal, uninteresting and so easy I could beat it with my eyes closed. The level of disappointment it leaves you with is so astounding that you can practically throw all the good points of this game straight out the window. It was just that bad because the ending boss battle was probably the most anti-climatic scene in the game and feels like barely any effort was put into making a proper conclusion.
Metroid: Other M
NO NO NO NO NO NO NO.
This was....by far...the biggest...greatest...disappointment next to Duke Nukem Forever !! I never seen such terrible shit !! You know what made it terrible? It was the fact that Samus opened her stupid mouth making her the most boring and emo feeling character that I have ever seen in video game history. It feels like we are stupid or something and everything has to be well described to us and half the time she just rambles on and on and on (sometimes I wish she would shut the fack up). Like one gamer said "feels like she is reading emotional baggage from a teleprompter in her monologues" and I can not agree more. Also boo frickity hoo, "I kill for a living...I am emo...love me daddy !!" .....No one gives a fack !!!
And not to top the cherry but the story was so terrible, I just wanted to laugh (the plot holes were immense). Like wtf happened to the "Deleter". I thought this was suppose to be an important plot point and then he is never mentioned again throughout the story (so wtf was all that bullshit about? No one cares that this rogue agent or spy called the deleter is killing off soldiers?). It was just a pointless facking filler that had barely anything to do with the main plot !!! Even at the end of the game you think to yourself, wtf was the point of all the Deleter bullshit and why they hell did they try to make it sound so important. Man it doesn't matter because my concentration just gave up on even focusing on the story half way through this.
The controls were alright, but what really annoyed me was the targetting items (like the missles) where you had to use the wii remote to point and attack and then switch back to using the wii remote as a sideways controller (my friend says it is better, but I disagree. I guess it is preference). As for the sense of exploration that you got from previous metroid games, it has really diminished and at times I feel like Metroid Other M doesn't know what it wants to be (2D sidescroller, 3D, FPS ? Make up your damn mind). The most disappointing thing though is that me and some friends spent the entire day just beating it and it left a bitter taste it out mouths (mainly because we were out of saliva from laughing and swearing at the TV screen).
For god sake Nintendo, what might have been the worst crime out of them all is that why didn't you make the game !! Why give it to Team Ninja? Hell at least hire the people from Shadow Complex to make it (because if you look at Shadow Complex it is probably the greatest metroid-like clone ever. Hell if you changed the name Shadow Complex to Metroid and put it on the Wii, it might have been the greatest game in the existance of Wii games).
This is what metroid should be like !!!
Onionknight might do another interview sometime this week....if he survives
Interviewing Joe Dirt
Give me a quick bio of yourself:
I am 32 yrs old. married for 10 years, two kids, jeez hobbies... I dunno. Playing ET, fixing broken things and tinkering with my cars. I was born in Sarajevo, Bosnia & Herzegovina and survived 2 years living under siege during war. In 1995 I moved to Canada for a better future and now I am currently working for Microsoft as an exchange ranger.
I like individuals who have a sense of humor, and I also like messing with people. Personally I have a bunch of people who hate my guts.
How did you meet Dare and Rainier?
I met Dare about 5-6 years ago in ET on a NB server. After their server went down, I went and played on the [FAG] NoQuarter and then on their Jaymod server, where I met Rainier. He messaged me to come to vent and we have been soul mates ever since.
Why did you decide to make Fearless-Assassins?
We were fed up with the admins on [FAG] for senseless abuse and thought we could create a better gaming community. They laughed at us and told us we would fail, but look what happened.
In [FAG] the admins would splat you if u killed them or if u got a killing spree. They also stole our first menu mod and left our website address in it. Then claimed they didn't do it. So I stole their health and ammo script of their server. Hahaha but I never used it. I might still have it somewhere.
I just wanted to show them that they were messing with the wrong person. After that I didn't really care much. We did our thing, they failed and rest you know
If you, Dare and Rainier had a fist fight, who would win?
I would because Dare is a nerd and Rainier gets beat up by his girlfriend. I also had been in many fights and practiced judo for 6 years.
How many complaints do you get per week in the forums?
Not that many anymore, but I think the first complaint on the forums was about me
What is the most common mistake you see in new admins (or even older ones)?
They lack knowledge and common sense, but those are a minority. There are some really good admins included and most ask if not sure. But there are some that do the darnest things. I love listening to Rainier lose his mind on vent about some nub admins.
How would you describe your style of "Admining"?
I would describe it as fair with a slight hint of frustration
What pisses you off the most in ET?
Just like most of fps games, it seems to lack honor. Everyone is thinking about +1 kill and nubs hunt in packs. Back in 2003-2004, I enjoyed a good number of 1vs1 in a 32 slot server. There wasn't this animal mentality or this e-penis measuring contest every map
This is a new phenomenon that started 2-3 years ago and I hate to say it, but since we have a lot of servers, I guess that is what we have became known for.
Are you a part of any other online communities?
Hmm mostly forums related to my work and about my cars. I have a 2010 evo and 2008 merc b200. I also use to have an Accord and it was my pimp mobile. That car saw more pussy then my bed
What is your favourite movie/books/music?
My favourite book is "War and Peace" and my favourite movie is....jeez there are so many. I would have to go with anime...hmm. Akira I guess
Do you think Splash damage will deliver a new engine for ET or are they just BSing?
Well FA started as an ET community, but it has evolved and will continue to evolve to other games. Honestly, I think it's BS. Too little too late, so meh. I wouldn't mind if they do it, but I don't see it generating an interest outside the community
What does the future hold for Fearless Assassins?
Bigger and better things. We will be adding more games and more servers of course. Maybe even starting hosting our own servers and expand into the hosting market. It is the next logical step,
We are a decent size community now and I like how people get together and start playing games they normally wouldn't try
When will you give Onion your awesome computer?
Lol, hahahaha. Not a chance. You are the 2nd person this week asking for my computer. Every day I see some nerds planting their face in the window of my computer room, drooling all over. It's my man cave after all.
If anyone else wants to give interview please PM me
I am looking for players who want to come try Vindictus on Oct 13 (the beta release date). Vindictus is a combat MMORPG that involves destructible environments and using anything you can find as a weapon (from ceramic plates to the corpse of your enemy). Hack and slash strategy will just leave you dead. This game requires you to think as many enemies have different forms of counter attacks and triggered movements to your skills (in a way you have to counter their counter attack and use the environment to your advantage).
If you are interested contact my xfire: Demonspike
This is the only game other than those created by Valve corp to run on a modified Source engine. The graphics are very polished and system requirements are not as demanding thanks to this 3d engine.
CPU: Duo Core or higher
RAM: 1 GB
Graphics Card: Nvidia GeForce 7xxx series or equivalent
Operating System: Windows XP or higher
Hard Drive: 6 Gigabytes or more
Network: Broadband Recommended
http://passport.nexo...Theme=Vindictus <---- Register
http://vindictus.nex...ort/Client.aspx <---- Download
EDIT: BETA RELEASE IS ON OCT 13 !!!
DOUBLE EDIT: IF YOU LIVE IN EUROPE AND WANT TO PLAY USE www.hotspotshield.com TO GET AN AMERICAN IP
-9 programmable buttons
-4 profiles (128 kb)
-ergonomic design (they actually mean it this time).
Alright so first thing to say is that Coolermaster is a pretty new competitor in the gaming peripheral market (they are mostly known for their cases). The Inferno being their 2nd mouse is a huge improvement compared to their first "The Sentinal." And you know what? This mouse is fantastic and for good reason......
From my point of view, they practically stole ideas from the Logitech and Razer and combined the two. Yes that is the reason and I am serious. The rubberized material and depth is exactly the same as a deathadder, but the curviture and length is similar to the mx518. Heck it even has the "LED" logo in the middle =P (which up to now, i though only Razer did).
But that isn't the most interesting thing about it. This isn't just any mouse. It's an all around mouse for any form of gaming. It has an "Advanced Storm Macro Key" which is good for MMO and Strategy players. And a rapid fire button which is great for fps players. Especially in ET where your akimbo and rifle depends on how fast you click, the rapid fire key actually works pretty good. Unfortunately i can never get into the habit of hitting the rapid fire key ^^ (its hard to break a habit).
But you see the best thing about all of this is the price tag of $39. It just goes to show that even a ripoff of a combination of features of other mice can improve upon the originals. Making it one of the most comfortable mice I have ever used. I would only recommend it to the big handed individual who wants a comfortable mouse that will suit his/her gaming needs. If you got a very big hand and hate dragging your wrist or scrunching your hand, this is the mouse for you. For the small and average handed individual this mouse may be too big for you.
This article is very very boring. It is made as a reference for people buying video cards. Also if you want to skip over the data, just go straight to the conclusion for each section.
Performance per $
I used newegg.com (US) for the prices and used www.futuremark.com for their 3dMark Vantage Video Card Benchmarks. From there I just did a quick calculation of the # of Marks per $.
Shipping and Rebates are included in the final price
Prices are from the US. May not reflect the price in your country.
The price chosen is the lowest possible price of that video card. And no overclocked video cards are included in this comparison (because futuremark uses data from the reference cards).
In 3dmark vantage score per $:
HD 5970: 57.55
GTX 480: 55.22
HD 5870: 54.57
GTX 470: 58.6
HD 5850: 61.57
GTX 465: 55.2
GTX 460 1 GB: 72.88
GTX 285: 52
HD 5830: 72.62
GTX 460 768 MB: 64.12
GTX 260: 61.39
HD 5770: 82.4
HD 4870: 103 <---------- PEAK
GTS 450: 70.98
HD 5750: 70
*Every card after this point goes down a negative curve*
HD 5450: 36
If I had to plot this data it would have looked like a bell curve (when listing the cards in order of 3dmark Vantage Score).
So in conclusion the best bang for your buck today is the HD 4870 in terms of performance per dollar (103 marks per $ spent). It is kinda ironic though considering that the HD 4870 is a few years old and one of the hottest and most energy hungry card out there, yet costs only ~$101 for a card that puts out 10300 3d marks.
The runner ups were the HD 5770 (82.4 marks per $) and GTX 460 1 GB (72.88 marks per $). It shows the mid to high range spectra of cards tend to give you the best performance per $
Best Performing Video Cards in a Price Range:
How I calculated this was compare video cards in that price range and rate them according to performance. I used newegg.com (US) and took the lowest price of that card and used www.futuremark.com for their 3dMark Vantage Video Card Benchmarks.
In the case that two cards have the same 3dMark Score, i took the lowest price as the winner.
Some cards span more than one price range. Therefore some cards can span more than column.
To conclude the best performance you can get in a certain price range:
$100-$150: HD 4870
$150-200: GTX 460 768 MB
$200-250: HD 5850 1 GB
$250-300: GTX 470 1 GB
$300-400: HD 5870 1 GB
$400 + : HD 5970 2 GB
Performance Per Wattage
I used TomsHardware to try to look up the max load wattage in their furmark tests and used www.futuremark.com for their 3dMark Vantage Video Card Benchmarks. From there I just did a quick calculation of the # of Marks per watt.
This test is on efficiency. We are trying to see how much performance can be squeezed out of a single watt.
This isn't talking about how much energy is needed to run the card and this isn't a test on energy consumption. Please keep note of that.
Errors: Using furmark to test wattage and 3dmark vantage to test performance and derive a score from those two tests will be confounded with lots of error. Although 3dmark vantage is a good determiner or the cards performance, it may not stress the card to its maximum load wattage.
In 3dmark vantage score per watt:
HD 5970: 67
GTX 480: 54
HD 5870: 60.8
GTX 470: 49
HD 5850: 56
GTX 460 1 GB: 53.7
HD 5830: 46.76
GTX 460 768 MB: 43.6
HD 5770: 46.6
GTS 450: 30.9
*Every card after this point goes down a negative curve*
HD 5450: 39.9
So from this we find that the high performance cards actually do squeeze out the most performance for a single watt at load. And thus they are actually the most efficient in using the wattage they consume. The HD 5970, HD 5870 and HD 5850 were the three highest performers.
Also this is different from wattage consumption. Wattage consumption is how much wattage the card will consume in idle and load. Wattage Efficiency is how well the card will use that wattage towards performance.
Onion's Top 10 Computer Cases of All Time
Lol okay these are my favorite computer cases that I have ever seen (and yes i seen them in person =P). How I judge a computer case is by its price, performance, looks (more important than you think =P) and practicality.
Also if you are wondering why some of the cases do not include and interior picture. Its because of this damn blog image limit !!!
10. Zalman GS1000 Plus ~ $219.99
Let me say one thing. If you see this case in person, you will agree that it looks monster. Like its trying to be some sort of case from outerspace. But while it may look great, the only complaint is that the quality is shoddy for the price.
Yes it has great features like easy hotswap, huge interior and a seperating floor for the PSU. But in the end knowing that half of the material is plastic, makes you feel like they sacrificed some of the build quality for a futuristic look (it feels more "China" than your average case lawl). Nevertheless I like it for its features and its looks but if they want to justify such an expensive price, they should be hitting it for aluminum. Its more like its worth $ 119.99
9. Antec 300 ~ $39.99 - $54.99
Simple in design, sturdy and cheap. This was actually the best selling aftermarket computer case for almost 2 years. And there is a reason. The price is cheap, its wide enough to fit any heatsink, bottom mounted PSU and able to fit an HD 5870 (just barely). It is also one of the most used in computer shops for their premade store-brand PC (mainly because they are cheap bastards).
The only complaint for this case is that it has no cable management holes therefore making the inside of your PC clean would be quite a challenge. Also the noise seems to be common complaint.
8. Azza Helios 910 ~ $49.99 - $88.99
Most people say Azza is some cheapo computer case company. And I might have agreed in the past, but now it seems like you can actually get a nice bang for your buck with the Azza Helios 910.
The Azza Helios 910 comes with a nice huge 230 mm side fan, bottom mount PSU, cable management holes and partially japanese steel (excludes the front plate). In actually the same features as most higher end cases but can be as cheap as $45. It also comes with predrilled watercooling tube access (which is surprising for the price)
The downside is that when using monster width cpu heatsinks you will probably have to remove the huge 230 mm side fan (which is a biatch). Also noise seems to be a major factor as the fans that come with this particular case tends to get loud
7. NZXT Tempest Evo ~ $99.99
The Tempest is probably one you have heard of. A nice sleak dark design with a smokey side panel and has e-ATX support. Has many of the high end case features like bottom mount PSU, watercooling tube holes, removable hard drive cage and sturdy construction quality. But the biggest downside is the noise from the fans (yes i am sure I have said this plenty for just about every case).
Its almost the typical high end case but with a lean price tag and an acceptable look. It is quite common to find this case among most gamers (but not as popular as the Antec 900).
6. NZXT LEXA S ~ $64.99 - $79.99
One of the best looking "space-age" cases I have seen. The quality is not bad, its well designed and the noise is very mild. Also on a plus side it does fit 10.5 inch video cards (so yes it has a nice amount of space). This case is more of a fashion statement than a hardcore gaming case, but it gets the job done quite well.
5. Lancool PC-K62 ~ $99.99
I like this case for a few reasons. Its tough, sturdy, cheap and looks beautiful.... and it's fricken huge and for $69-130 for any of the Lancool PC-K** series (which most seem to be similar in size and look), it is a great price. I can't think of any complaints for this case. I mean literally I kinda wish I got that case (the PC-K62).
4. Antec 902 (or Antec 900 2.0) ~ $99.99 - 109.99
Probably one of the best ventilated cases with maximum airflow. It is one of the best "cooling" cases in the market. With the same features as most of the antec family cases it does decent CPU cooling and some of the best GPU cooling you will ever see. But like most cases nowadays, if you put the fans to maximum, it will make a lot of noise.
3. Silverstone Raven 2 ~ $159.99 - 199.99
This case looks fat and it looks fat for a good reason. Its will fit any crazy large motherboard (including the evga classified 4 way sl. Damn look at that SEXY motherboard. LOOK AT ITTT !!!!) and it has a very compact size (for an eATX case). But despite being compact, it does an excellent job cooling too. This maybe the most practical, size to performance ratio that you can ever get out of a high end case. Its not as huge as a mini fridge and not so small that it would have trouble fitting components.
Also if you notice, the motherboard is faced on its side and actually this works better than the conventional position because it is easier to expel heat when all your video card exhausts face the top (simple in theory. Heat goes up). This is actually a brilliant move by Silverstone because not only do you make it easier to cool your case, you also save space (even though the motherboard is on its side, its dimensions are still on par with most high end e-ATX cases).
2. Coolermaster Cosmos 1000 ~ $169.99 - $199.99
Maybe its just me or I think this case looks like a bomb. Literally it is damn awesome. A nice looking ventilation grill on the top, handle bars, sound dampening material, tons of filters and solid aluminum (excluding the vent top). But the most surprising feature is a VGA ventilation duct which feeds air directly to your PCI-e slots (this can be removed to fit a nice radiator if you want). You also get side hard drive slots with nice handles so you can easily pull them out when you need to . But lastly this may (and still maybe) one of the largest cases you can buy for a desktop computer (larger than a Corsair Obsidian) and one of the quietest cases I have ever seen.
1. Corsair Obsidian 800d ~ $260-$299
This is not only a giant of a case, but also one of the sleekest looking ones. But even though it can look uncomplicated and simple, this monster case sports a ton of a features. A hidden hidden front HDD tray door, hidden front port connectors, easy to remove one button side panel, 11 cable management holes and enough extra room to fit a radiator. This case is absolutely perfect !! I mean its so big it can even fit Hecken in there (heck maybe I can rent out the empty space to him).
I mean nothing can match this type of quality, size and looks. Even the noise the case makes is minimal at best. And for something without tons of filters or foam that's pretty damn good. This is the most perfect case money can buy (if money is a problem though you can always rob a bank or rob dare).
Next week I will post a Hall of Shame for some of the stupidest and most ugly cases I have ever seen (and yes I know some of our member do own these shameful ugly cases ).
Computer stuff that pisses me off?
Here is a list of things of random computer stuff that seem to piss me off. And I mean really really piss me off. There are days i just want to throw a hammer into a mirror because of it !!! (especially #1 !!!!). So read it, add some of your own stuff that pisses you off, and one day some nab could write a book.
6.) 3d Mark Vantage Scores and PhysX.
OMGWTFBBQ I got 60k on my 3dmark CPU score =D.
You hear this all the time from ppl on the internet and once you hear that you already know "oh fack that guy don't know shit". Most people with Nvidia cards don't know this, but physX creates botched results during the CPU test which impacts the overall CPU score. Man i seen nabs be like "holy shit my CPU is soo good, it got 24000 CPU score. Then you go look at their specs and notice they got a Core 2 Duo and you are like "wtf...more powerful than an i7?".
From Futuremark Staff:
CPU scores with and without PhysX in 3Dmark vantage. Over 20k is like the score of an i7 lol
So to the nabs out there who use Nvidia cards and don't know how to benchmark......your dual core is not better than an i7 EXTREME edition !!!! Facking nabs
5.) Updating bios
Ya updating bios is suppose to be simple right? Not always
For example Gigabyte boards, i format a USB drive, put bios on it, install... No problem. Simple and a piece of cake.
Then you go try another motherboard like well lets say MSI. What the fack is this shit? "MSI live update" Fack you. You try to use the automatic updater it recommends and it doesn't do shit because it doesn't support Windows 7 x64 (and even to this day, it ironically still doesn't). So big deal you can do it manually.
What a piece of shit of a program
So I do the same thing I have done in the past with ASUS and Gigabyte boards (get the stick that is already formated, Put bios on usb, away we go). No !!! Wrong. MSI got some special shitty ass format and you look on their website for instructions.... "Put in win98 disk"... (already it tells me they need to seriously update their instructions). After all the commands you have to type and the shit you got to download its already been an hr and a half just to update a bios. For facks sake MSI why can't you do it like everyone else.
4.) Cheap ass power supplies that come with cases.
For gods sake don't use that shit =P. If it came with your case, throw the thing in the garbage can because its probably crap. People complain their motherboard or video card got fried. Well its no surprize !!!
Most of the time the PSU you that comes with the case doesn't even reach the watts it advertises at and they don't even disclose the efficiency (Because usually its a terrible 55% or worse). Hell a 500W PSU that is advertised only puts out 350W and when people start running some heavy material on it like a video card or multiple hard drives, its probably not going to last you a year (and don't be surprised that when it dies, a vital computer component of yours will fry with it =P).
So do the world a favor and when you buy a computer case that comes with a PSU, just huck it out (it will save you a heck of a lot of money in repair bills).
3.) CPU heatsinks that can't make ram clearance
For facks sake build tall CPU heatsinks =D. This is modern day and every RAM manufacter has attached a heatsink onto their ddr3 ram. As a result the ram is now 20% greater in height.
Look at corsair, patriot, mushkin...even kingston ! All their rams are at least 1 cm taller than the norm. It just pisses me off for all the people who go buy some Coolermaster, Zalman or Scythe ..etc CPU heatsinks find out it that you can't vertically mount it or else the ram gets in the way.
If you look closely, you will notice that in the first DIMM there is no way to put in a stick of ram because the heatsink is blocking it.
2.) CFM and static pressure ratings for Fans
Full of shit. That is all I can say. For example coolermaster fans that say 90 CFM, 3.00 mmH20 pressure and 19 dba. Wow that is awesome. That must like the best fan in the world. Wrong. Total bullshit. The damn thing makes 36 dba worth of noise, doesn't even have enough pressure to cool a CPU heatsink and isn't anywhere close to 90 CFM (it was independently tested to be 40 CFM instead). What a piece of chinese manufacturered shit !!!!!
Would anyone try to falsely advertise a Ford Focus as having 650 hp? Then why the hell would you do the same for a fan !!!
1.) Ugly ass PC cases. Everything seems to get uglier overtime
Ya military boxy corners and shitloads of mesh and plastic. Vive le revolution ! Go fack yourself !
Ya its a gay fad. Coolermaster finally designed a super ugly series of cases called the Haf X. Antec has started a genocide because for every good pretty case they make, they create 3 more ugly ones like the Antec Dark Fleet, skeleton..etc
All they do is make shit ugly cases nowadays because hey as long as it has a brand on it people will buy it. Ya throw a shit load of mesh and some plastic with a cheap metal frame and away you go.
Its literally the biggest BS i ever seen. For facks sake the Haf X only costs $20 dollars to make and they sell the facking thing for over a hundred. Also lets think about the value of cases nowadays. In the past aluminum use to dominate as the material used to build cases. It was sturdy, looked good, and never collapsed or bent.
Nowadays what do we get? Plastic and mesh. And the damn cases cost even more than they did in the past. Well fack that shit. Antec and Coolermaster you can go fack yourself with your gay ass cases. I hate you shitty ass slogan "We innovate our cases by giving it the best cooling possible".
NO SHIT. If I replaced the front and side panels with mesh, of course its going to give the best cooling possible. Hey they can go one step further and not even have a side panel at all !! Think of how awesome the cooling will be then
1.) Don't get a Dell EVER
Seriously don't get Dell. The quality is shit, the parts are expensive and they usually have some gimickie safeguards inplace like locking bios. Some people say it is good to do that because it keeps stupid idiots from destroying their computer but really how stupid can people be? (actually I better not ask that).
They also have special custom made hardware for some of their models. Like specially screw holes that only fit Dell PSU's !! I even seen a dell computer where the motherboard used special 3 pin connectors so you can't plug in a regular case fan. Heck even the motherboards and cases are special. They have "custom screw holes" so you can't mount any aftermarket motherboard in the case except dell motherboards. Its just Dell's way of saying "If somethings breaks down you can't get hardware replacement from anywhere else except from DELL muahhaha and its fricken double the price and terrible quality that will breakdown again !"
2.) Try to Avoid Getting a Laptop If You Can
Gaming laptops are terrible for anyone. Jesus its huge, its heavy, it gets extremely hot and the battery life gets eaten up extremely fast. IT DEFEATS THE PURPOSE OF A LAPTOP. It doesn't look cool to carry an 8-16 pound lug of a laptop around that will only have a battery life under 2 hrs.
Also the technology within a laptop is years behind desktop computers and it is widening mainly because the focus of a laptop is not performance, but rather energy efficiency. If you want performance, you get a desktop. On another note.......
A MOBILE i7 and MOBILE HD5870 are not the same as a regular i7 or HD5870. The mobile components only gives out 1/3 of the performance compared to the standard desktop cpu and video cards. Meaning they suck ass and suck ur wallet.
Ex.) The Mobile HD5870 performs the same as a 8800 GT 512 MB. And fack the 8800 GT 512 MB is selling for $50 on craigslist. Instead you pay over $1000 for a laptop with a card that can give you the same performance. The Mobile HD5870 is rated as an average card today (just like the 8800 GT 512 MB), but for the price its insane. They should stop naming these shit mobile cards and processors after their uberly good desktop counterparts because nubs will think they are good. But don't blame the consumer completely if they did make such a decision.
So why can't a laptop use the same technology as a desktop? Think about it logically. Do you really think a laptop can keep an i7 cool enough even at stock settings? What about Video cards which normally run around 80 C in a desktop? Of course not. Fack if they used the same components your laptop would melt. Laptops have much poorer ventilation than desktops and they can not use proper heatsinks to cool (because of size limitations).
3.) Do your homework before buying a premade Rig
I don't like buying premade rigs as much as making your own but its much better than buying a laptop or some comp that can't do anything.
But you before you buy, you have to do your homework. I seen people buy the cheapest rig on places like iBuyPower for around $600 and they tell me "Wth I can't play anything." Seriously just because it has the word "gaming computer" doesn't mean it can game lol. That so called $600 computer my friend bought had an HD 5450 and if he did his research he would have found out that an HD 5450 is the lowest of the low when it comes to games. So low that you can't even play most games in the last 2-3 years with this card.
So don't be nab. Do some damn research by heading over to TomsHardware.com
4.) Don't Be Afraid to Build Your Own
Most people are like "I am a dumbass, its too complicated." The truth is putting together a computer is as easy as putting together lego. I am no genius (no really have you seen the shit I done ? I am the Admiral of the Failboat for facks sake) and even I can manage putting computers together.
Look if the Admiral of the Failboat can do it, you can do it too. There are hundreds of thousands of youtube vids out there for reference. If you buy a motherboard, the manual will tell you everything you need to know too.
Its like IKEA furniture but easier. Except at least the screws fit the screwholes !!! Also the quality of aftermarket components are much better than what you get from name brand. The advantages of building your own are endless as you can customize if for your need. There is a learning curve involved to learn what parts are compatible with each other. But its usually extremely straightforward.
ex.) "Intel Socket 775 DDR2 motherboard" uses DDR2 ram and Intel CPU's that are socket 775. If your graphics card says "requires 500W and 6 pin". Get a PSU that is 500W or greater and has a 6 pin connector (it says on thedamn box).
Shit it isn't rocket science. Putting together a computer isn't complicated at all and isn't even that time consuming. All you just have to read instructions carefully.
Also for the same price as a brand computer, you can build yourself a much better desktop PC if you shop at various online stores (NCIX, Newegg, Ebay ..etc)
I seen many people post "Is this a good gaming laptop" on forums lately and most of the time I shake my head. In the past I made stupid decisions and from that I learned the dos and don'ts for shopping for a computer. But maybe its best if people throw a couple grand a a computer that won't do shit. If it hurts you in your wallet, you will learn your lesson for eternity.
Alright so today I am going to review a Kingston 64GB V Series SSD. I will also compare it to my Seagate Baracuda 7200 rpm HDD. One of the most common questions is "Will a SSD give me a performance boost in games. So what I did was compare 3Dmark Vantage Scores between a regular HDD and an SSD.
Overview of the Kingston 64GB V Series SSD:
200 mb/s Read
100 mb/s write
mounting options for desktop and laptop
was priced at $110 at NCIX
Lifespan: 1,000,000 hours
The SSD was not mine but instead was my friends. We used my system for the tests though since it was able to run 3Dmark and PCmark Vantage. It wouldn't run on his system since his comp was a bit old and he was just trying to breath new life into it with this SSD (which it actually did and it ran much faster).
An SSD will not give you a performance boost in gaming. Any performance boost that can be associated with it is so minor that you wouldn't be able to tell the difference (unless your eye can distinguish between 1 FPS). What an SSD will do is help boot your system a lot faster and all programs being run on the SSD will have a tremendous speed increase. Photoshop took 2 seconds to load and that was after 3 seconds after starting up the computer. That is simply wow. If you don't believe me, the second your computer logs in, try starting photoshop and see how long it takes (even on a 955 BE it took like 12 seconds or more). My friends i7 can't even boot it that fast on a regular HDD. So the final verdict is this: Good for overall system performance, No difference in gaming.
Alright lets make some stuff clear first...
Remember "$17 dolla thats gangsta" of a case? Well $17 dollar cases don't cut it. After a few months the top was sinking, the fan that came with it broke, a leg broke off and the hard drive + 5.25' bays were loose and rattling. I remember I wrote in my tutorial "Don't cheap out on the case" but fack I was a total hippocrate.
So I decided to replace my damn case with an Antec 300 which costed me $49.99 (it made me frown but at least the quality is "decent"). To be honest I really wanted a nice aluminum case, but fack no one uses aluminum anymore !! (Lian Li does but only for their models over $180 !!!). Talking to some old timers (*cough* Rainier) a lot of companies use to make lots of aluminum cases but facking quality control went down the drain (blame China).
As for the heatsink and the cpu, I bought both on ebay. Thank god for ebay because I actually got something cheap (if it wasn't for Thundercunt telling me about how he got an uber cheap Phenom II 955 BE, i probably wouldn't have bothered looking). So I got a Zalman PerformaX Heatsink for $26.99 (its 156 cm in depth, but luckily it still fits in the antec 300. Just barely lol). I also got myself a phenom II 955 BE for $140, which is pretty nice (especially considering that all the local computer stores are practically out of stock of almost everything except lower end i7 models and i3's).
The Zalman PerformaX does not make a perfect fit. Actually I had to elevate the fan above the ram slots to make it work. I read the manual closely and in a brief section it states ram limitations. The size restrictions would not allow any corsair, patriot, a-data, G-skill (certain types) or Muskin to be slotted in the first ram slot unless you elevate the fan (the ram heatsinks for those brands are too tall). Whoopdeedoo, isn't that great. I dunno if I should blame Zalman for building a low heatsink or AM3 board manufacturers for building the ram slots too close to the CPU. It sucks that all the reviews I read about it used test systems with i7's (and probably to avoid this issue).
But it does keep my 955 BE at 28 C idle and 48 C max when put to 3.8 ghz even with an elevated fan (I can say I am happy for what I paid for but the hassle of setting this heatsink up is such a huge pain in the ass).
Why the trees?
If you noticed on the side of the 5.25' + HD bays there is this weird tree textured black linen. You see when I went to buy my Antec 300 case, the salesman offered a "noise reducing foam/silencer" special with the purchase of a case for only $40 (expensive cheap crap foam that they try to sell regular price $79.99). I asked what this foam actually does and apparently you are suppose to put it around your HD bays and Side panels to reduce the noise.
Instead I asked for two reusable linen bags, went home, and cut them to fit those specific areas of the case. Do they work? Well they do work, but covering the back side panel has literally no affect (and no change to temperatures I can see). Covering the HD + 5.25' bays actually did actually buffer a lot of noise from the front fans and filling the other side panel reduced the noise very slightly.
At least the two noisy coolermaster 2000 rpm LED front case fans are kept fairly silent (so I guess covering the bays actually does something). Still a majority of the noise comes through the 140 mm top fan. Also is this a fire hazard? I doubt it considering that the foam they sell isn't "fireproof" either (but if my case catches on fire, i'll be the first to post it in my blog =P).
Lessons Learned? and Final Word
You think you be saving money by being cheap, but sometimes it comes back to bite you in the ass. In the end it just creates more problems and becomes a money sink. Don't cut corners because of your budget. If you are building a computer be patient and save up till you are sure that what you are getting is decent quality.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ug3aZCbI4QPS: Your ears might bleed
Crazy About Fans
Anyways since I am going to start a computer club for the start of next year, I gathered some computer enthusiasts at Simon Fraser University and we had a look at some awesome rigs. Around 6 people participated so it wasn't much. Its hard enough to get people to join during a summer semester when most individuals have their summer off (if not enough members join by next month, the club will not be funded and probably won't be able to be created until the start of next year).
Anyways out of all the rigs, this guy's (Geoff's) rig was extremely noticable. I mean how can you miss this thing. Its an Antec 300, has no LED fans, no cathodes....nothing except that it makes the equivalent noise as someone starting their car.
I am dead fricken serious. He has a older quad core intel, 6 GB ddr3 ram and 2 x HD 4870's. His rig gets hot and I mean real real damn HOT (he uses a passive cooler for the OCed HD 4870's with fans zip tied to it and they are still hot like hell). So his solution to eliminate heat from his case? Delta Fans.
Delta Fans are some of the most powerful fans you can ever find for your computer. This model was 6 x more powerful than your average 120 mm fan and cost close to $40 dollars each. It also blows out 250 CFM and the pressure is damn huge. It literally feels like someone is blowing your face with a hair dryer.
But man are they fackingg loud. And he doesn't have one, he has two of those fans in his case and 3 Scythe SlipStream fans for intake. Usually he puts the delta fans to 70% speed using his fan controller. Just for the heck of it he wanted to show us its true power and he used his iPhone dBA meter app to calculate how loud his total case can get when on MAX SPEED.
~69 facking dBA !!!! Its as loud as your average household vacuum cleaner !!! I walked down the hall way and went into an empty class 9 rooms away and you can still hear the damn thing.
Lol so if you want some fans that can push a ton of air and rival the noise your car makes? Just go to newegg or NCIX for some of these fackers.
The last couple of months has been computer frenzy. A lot people have been building custom computers and asking for help so I decided to post a pic of one of them. I didn't choose any of the hardware for their rigs. All I did was help put it together =P
Owen's $600 Rig
ASUS M4A87TD USB/SATA 3.0 AM3 870GX - $110.99
G.Skill DDR3-1600 9-9-9-24 - $119.99
WD 500GB Hard Drive - $47.99
OCZ StealthXStream 500W - $29.99
XFX HD 4770 512 MB - $99.99
AMD Athlon II x 4 635 - $112.99
Apex Vortex3620 Gaming Case - $26.99
LG DVDRW Drive - $23.99
Total Cost: $572.92
Free Indie Games for You
Yus thats right I am posting the humblebundle download site so everyone can play these games for free:
World of Goo
Also this isn't considering piracy because these games will be going open source by the end of the week (also I payed 1 cent for them XD). Also if a nub named Yoyo is reading this, even his computer can play these awesome indie games so I am sure everyone will enjoy =D
Click here to download some Awesome Games
Edit: Also I can't get Lugura or Aquaria to work properly on Windows 7 64 bit. So if anyone figures out how to make it work, message me
Why DVD Cases are Bullshit !
You know what pisses me off? DVD cases. Facking huge ass cases that only use up 60% of its actual space to hold a single DVD. I have like 20 Xbox 360 games and they are big space wasters. I can't keep them in my CD rack or my TV cupboard so I have to keep them on a shelf like its a fricken book.
So Fack you whoever invented DVD cases. What ever happened to the PS1 era of normal cases that were compact in design. 20 DVD cases fill the same room as 100 CD cases for god sake. Now they are all getting environment saying "we have to make DVD cases more environmental so we will redesign it with new materials". I got a solution for you, use facking CD cases that are 60% smaller and half the price.
I feel like the entertainment industry is going back to the VHS days. Remember those days? Fat ass tapes that you store in a cupboard. Ya now you storing less fat but wide ass DVD cases in that same cupboard you bought 30 years ago. Now that you mention it some cases are so fat ass its unbelieveable. Just look at the Orange Box ! It has two DVD disks but its facking giganormous. Why can't they use traditional Double CD cases (they are the exact same size as regular CD cases too).
Supporters might argue that DVD cases are airtight and keeps dust out of the case. Also since it is a flexible plastic, it will not break as easily. Well I say fack that shit. Just make CD cases out of the same material as DVD cases and keep the damn size !! The first day I laid eyes on a DVD case was when I first got a PS2 and a copy of ONIMUSHA. I open the motherfacking case and what do a find above the DVD containment area? A memory card slot.
Who is going to store a whole memory card in a case for a single game. Besides a save file only takes up like 10kb of a 8 MB memory card! ( no game takes up the whole 8 MB no matter how many times you save). So you switched to DVD cases just so you can put a memory card holder no one uses? I shit on you Sony (ya that right, I took a shit right in your case and sent it back to you *fart*).
Console giants ( Microsoft, Nintendo, Sony) are going to redesign their current video game cases to make it more "green". Telling people they can be more environmentally friendly with there new giant ass DVD cases. You want to be more environmentally friendly? Go back to CD cases you stupid shit.
Onionknight has murdered everyone at Rogers Video and might do the same to you if you don't switch to CD cases
I MAKE CHEAP FOR YOU !!! GAMING KEYBOARDS AND MICE
Okay if you haven't figured out by now, all my blogs are not based on the best possible computer spoofs and hardware. Instead it is based on the cheapest bang for your buck. Like I did for my entry's on "The $600 dollar Canadian Gaming Rig", "Ghetto Wireless" and "Making my Own Rig" ; I will continue posting cheap alternatives to some more expensive solutions.
EXPENSIVE: Razer Tarantula ~ $60-$100+
The Razer Tarantula is one amazing keyboard. Its moderately priced at $60-100 based on the edition. Comes with 10 macro keys, side hotkeys, ultrapolarizing, 2 usb ports and headphone and stereo jacks. It also has lights and have a smooth nice texture to its keys. But for some budget individuals, it might be out of their price range. Luckily for you I do have a cheap alternative that will cost you under $20 bucks.
CHEAP: OCZ Alchemy Elixir Keyboard ~ $19.99 (www.a-power.com)
The OCZ Alchemy comes with the same number of macro keys and has more side hotkeys than the Tarantula itself. The rubber texture of the keys are well made for gaming. The amazing thing about all of this is that it will only cost you $19.99 !!!! On the disadvantage it does not have a sleek design or lights and it polarizing rate is less than the Tarantula. But if you are using a regular keyboard for your gaming, you will notice a significant different when using the OCZ Alchemy Elixir.
EXPENSIVE: DeathAdder Gaming Mouse~ $64.99 - 92.99
The DeathAdder is the most popular gaming mouse by most gamers. 3500 DPI, weights, ultrapolarizing, 5 buttons, LEDs, visually appealing shell and ability to save multiple profiles. The quality is quite outstanding, but for the budget gamer, the price range is way too expensive.
CHEAP: OCZ Behemoth Gaming Mouse ~ $27.99 (www.a-power.com)
The Behemoth is has 3200 DPI, weights, 5 buttons, ability to save multiple profiles, 4 way changing LED and an very ergonomic design. Just like the Deathadder, it has onboard memory too. The sizes between the two mice are not that different and both are ultrapolarizing. The disadvantage though is that it does not pole as much as the DeathAdder, it has slightly less DPI and its impossible for left handed individuals to use because of its curve. Nevertheless for the right handed budget individual, this is extremely appealing for under $30.
Alternative CHEAP: Steelseries Kinzu ~ $29.99 (www.ncix.com)
The Steelseries Kinzu mouse is probably the most popular budget gaming brand mouse you can find in the market and it also runs at 3200 DPI and is polarizing to the same rate as a DeathAdder. I would say this is an amazing find except for the fact that it doesn't not have changeable weights, looks very plain, only 3 programmable buttons and no profile switches. Nevertheless it works better than some $60 dollars mouses and is a bargain compared to any ultrapolarizing mouse you can find in the market !
Other CHEAP Gaming Mice:
OCZ Eclipse Gaming Mouse - adjustable weights, 1000 pole rate, 2400 DPI, 4-way changing LED, Onboard Memory ~$19.99 (www.a-power.com)
OCZ Equalizer Laser Gaming Mouse - 2500 DPI, 4-way changing LED, 1 Triple Threat Button (1 click = 3 clicks) ~$19.99 (www.a-power.com)
Gigabyte GM-M6880 Lazer Gaming Mouse - 1600 DPI, 5 Buttons, Cushioned Rubber Grips ~ $24.99 (www.ncix.com)
Extremely High Budget Gaming Mice:
EXPENSIVE: Logitech G500 Gaming Mouse ~ $79.99- 89.99
This mouse is weight adjustable, 5700 DPI, 10 programable buttons, ultrapolarizing, onboard memory and looks amazing. I really can't say more except that it is an amazing mouse. Except $79.99 is just way too much for the budget gamer ! But to try to find something cheaper is quite difficult
CHEAPER: Coolermaster Sentinel Advance Twin Laser Gaming Mouse ~ $49.99
Probably the cheapest 5000+ DPI mouse you can find. It has an OLED screen for custom logos which you can upload to the mouse, 5600 DPI, weights, a rapid fire mode, stores up to 5 game profiles in onboard memory, 8 buttons, 7 colors and variable ground lighting effects and ultrapolarizing. The cons of this mouse is that the number of programable buttons is limited to 5 and has slightly less DPI than the Logitech G500. But the pro side of this mouse is that it is much more visually appealing.
How to choose a DVD Drive:
If you are the basic computer user, almost any DVD burner you find will be suitable. I am no expert in this field since almost any DVD Burner today will be able to provide you with suitable performance for burning DVD and DVD DL formats, playing movies and installing applications. As for DVD burning speeds, I tend not to trust them. Reason is because of burning errors. It doesn't matter if it is 22x or 32x burning speed, if you want flawless error free disk burning, you will probably set your Burner to 8x or below.
How to Install DVD Drives:
Step 1: Take off the plastic DVD cover, Side Case Panel and Front Case Panel (like my old computer below). Then slide the DVD Drive in. For some computers you won't need to remove the front plate to install the DVD drive
Step 2: Line up the DVD drive in the position you prefer. Then screw it in.
Step 3: Put the front panel of your computer case back on (if you had to remove it)
Step 4: Attach the IDE cable (only for very old DVD drives. The picture on the left) or SATA cable (Picture on the right) to the DVD drive. Then attach the power cables (either SATA power cable or Molex).
How to choose a Hard Drive:
Nowadays memory is actually the cheapest parts of the computer. $50-100 can get you anywhere from 500 GB to 1 TB of memory. It is almost $1 for 10 gigs of memory or less !!! Things that will help you determine the type of hard drive you will buy:
-Amount of Memory
- Rpm - Rotations per Minute - This is the greatest determinant of the speed of your hard drive. 7200 rpm + is usually standard nowadays unless it is a laptop hard drive.
- Amount of cache - The amount of data the HD will have readily available for processing. Today all hard drives are over 8 mb cache and increasing the cache past that point has minimal benefits. The reason that lately manufactures are increasing the cache is because it is the cheapest thing to upgrade. Whether you have 16 mb or 32 mb cache, you will not see any performance benefits in gaming (if any, it would be extremely minimal)
I am no expect on hard drives but I do know that the most common choices tend to be: Western Digital and Seagate Hard drives.
How to Install a Hard Drive:
It is extremely similar to installing the DVD drive but just a different location
Step 1: Remove the side computer panel and put the Hard drive into the HD rack as shown
Step 2: Screw her in !!!!!!! (no sexual pun intended)
Step 3: Attach SATA or IDE cables and the power cables which are either molex or SATA power.
How to choose a Video Card:
Video Cards are probably the most fun you will have in deciding what computer parts to choose. The main factor for deciding video cards is "What do you want to use the Video Card for?".
If you just want a basic video card for some video and computer use a $29.99 GTX 210, HD 4350 or HD 5450. They are very very low budget cards, that will relieve your motherboard from processing onboard graphics and will give your PC a boost in performance.
If you want to watch higher definition video and play most of today's games, you will settle for a video card GTX 240 /HD4670 or better.
If you want a card that can play any game on highest settings and do 1440 x 900, maximum settings, max AA and get 45+ fps in crysis, you will want something around HD 5830 / GTX 275 or better
- Size of the video card. Will it fit your case?
- Does your Power Supply have enough wattage to run your video card properly?
- What type of slot does it use? PCI-e (today's most prefered standard), PCI, or AGP
How to Install a Video Card
Step 1: Unscrew the PCI slot protector
Step 2: Place the Video Card in the Proper slot ( PCI-e video cards go into the PCI-e slots ...etc). If you do not remember how to differentiate between the PCI slots please refer back to http://fearless-assassins.com/forum/blog/22/entry-90-onions-computer-building-guide-motherboard-and-power-supply/ . Then secure the video card with a screw into the case.
Step 3: Plug in the power cord(s) for your video card if it is required. Usually it tends to be a 6 pin or 8 pin power cable from your power supply (if you don't have enough 6 pin or 8 pin cables, usually the video card comes with molex to 6/8pin adapters and if not you can buy it at a computer store). Also to note, the lower profile video cards usually run off the motherboards power and don't require cables (GT 210, HD 4350, HD 5450)
How to choose a Processor?
For choosing a Processor, the main deciding factors will usually be its:
CPU rating ( I use http://www.cpubenchmark.net/ )
Number of cores
Number of physical CPU's (a single dual core or quad core is still 1 CPU. Most Processors only have 1)
The processor you choose will either be an AMD or Intel brand. Which one you should choose? Well in the end it all comes down to your price range of course =P. If you want to go for a cheap gaming rig, you will probably end up with AMD, since they are more affordable. If you want very high end rig gaming rig, it will probably be Intel since their latest processors have the best performance. If you want the latest gaming rig, I suggest you go for a quad core processor.
Installing the Processor:
Installing the Processor takes you around 30 seconds to do. In is not a complicated process so don't worry
Step 1: Release the lever of CPU Socket on the motherboard (where my finger is pointing). Just press down on it and the lever will shoot upwards
Step 2: If you look on the Processor you will see that in one corner the connectors are missing. Your CPU socket will have a corner with missing sockets. Place the Processor in such a way that the side with missing connectors is on top of the side with missing sockets.
Step 3: The processor should just fall flat into the socket. You do not ever push the processor into the socket or you will get bent connectors. If it does not fall flat, it means that you lined it up incorrectly. Refer back to step 2.
Step 4: Then push down the lever and the Processor will be clamped in place.
How to choose your CPU Cooler?
There are a variety of CPU coolers to choose from. You can either use the stock cooler which came with your processor or a third party cooler. If you are a first time computer builder, I suggest you to just use the stock cooler.
Some third party coolers will perform better than the stock cooler and some will perform worse. Temperature wise a lot will depend on your motherboard, overclock settings and case cooling. Usually the more bigger the heat sink, fans size and the number of cooling pipes should determine the cooling ability. But that is actually not always the case. A lot of it has to do with how it is set up and the materials being used. Here are some suggested CPU coolers from me:
Coolermaster Hyper 212 Plus $30 -AM2/AM3 or LGA1366/LGA775/LGA1156 - 4 Direct Touch Heatpipes and a 120 mm fan. Support dual fans
Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro REV.2 $30 - AM2/AM3 or LGA1366/LGA1156/LGA775 - 3 Heat sinks and a 92MM Fan. Suitable for smaller cases.
Installing the CPU cooler
Step 1 (OPTIONAL): Apply Thermal Paste ONLY FOR THIRD PARTY COOLERS
If you plan to use the cooler that came with your CPU, do not do this step !!! Stock coolers already have a firm layer of thermal paste at the bottom of it
Start by putting a pea sized droplet of thermal compound in the center of your Processor. Then spread it evenly across the processor using a business card or a Q-tip (I did my old comp with a business card lol). Add thermal compound as needed, remember your goal is to get a very thin layer on your Processor. Do not get any on your motherboard !
Step 2: Mount the Cooler (can be challenging )
Mount the cooler on top of the Processor in such a way that the "clips" on the side of the cooler matches with the "nubs" on the motherboard.
To make it snap in place you will have to pull the clip over the nub for one side and then do the same thing on the other side. The lever on the CPU cooler must be standing up when you do this. After both sides are snapped in, pull down the lever so the cooler gets locked in place.
Step 3:: Plug in the fan
Now just plug in the 4 pin fan connector into the fan slot on your motherboard.
Choosing your RAM:
You already know the type of ram your going to choose. Its either DDR2 or DDR3 and please choose the one that is compatible with your motherboard.
Somethings about ram you should know is the DDR3-XXXX. The XXXX is the maximum speed the ram can run at. If you are overclocking your cpu, your ram will automatically be clocked up. When overclocking make sure you increase the volts for stability, but no further than the maximum amount designated (it is printed on the box or manual).
Also ram latency is also printed (something like 6-6-6-18). To be honest you should worry too much about the latency. Tests show that latency would only increase the performance of your ram by 2-5%. The price you would have to pay for lower latency isn't worth it.
Some brands of RAM I suggest: Patriot (my prefered choice), Corsair and G.SKILL
Installing your RAM:
Extremely straightforward. All you have to do it line up the ram in the slot. Press down and watch the side clips snap in.
MAKE GHETTO THINGS THE ONION WAY
Yus thats right. You can be gangsta like me ! What to see the latest in onion technology that can boost your wifi? I show you so you pay me now dawg.
Onion's Super Awesome Powerful Lazer Satellite Dish v 1.1
Fack ya !! You can't get more Ghetto than if you use Onion's Super Awesome Powerful Lazer Satellite dish v1.1. Before I use to get 3 wireless connections but now BAM. With the awesome facking super onion powerful lazer satellite, I now get 18 connections. How you make it? Well fack why the hell should i tell you? Okay i'll tell you. Damn you will need
1.) The cheapest Chinese-made Strainer you can get from the dollar store ($1.00 or less)
I like to emphasize the point that it has to be the cheapest one or it won't work. Also it is necessary that it is a chinese made product, because they are great conductors of everything !! (heat, radio waves, SARS, Killer Bees, Mad angry dogs...etc) If it is from anyone else the quality might be soo good that you will destroy your ghettoness
2.) Rubber bands ($0.10 or less)
Yes we use state of the art rubber bands to hold the antenna into the center of the strainier. I tried to use dental floss to emphasize the ghettoness of this creation but it blew my mind and became flammable. This lead to the destruction of Onion's Super Awesome Powerful Lazer Satellite Dish v. 1.0
3.) Card Board (Free if stolen)
I used the cardboard box that was used to package my processor. But if you want real ghetto (and i mean real real Ghetto), you should go out and find the nearest homeless man, and steal the cardboard he is sleeping on. It also comes with an intriguing and satisfying old hobo smell !
4.) Non Ghetto Antenna/USB Extender
You will need an antenna extender to attach to your PCI network adapter. If you use a USB adapter, you will need a USB extender. This is the only part which is unfortunately not ghetto
Drill a hole through the chinese made strainer, shove your antenna/usb through it, stabilize the antenna/usb in place with rubber bands, and pin a hole in the cardboard box to mount the dish in place. Connect the end of the antenna/usb to the PCI network adapter / USB port using your antenna extension cable / USB extension.
AND WHALLA YOU GET GHETTO IN UR LIVING ROOM FREE OF CHARGE !!
The Ghetto ONION SURFER BOOYAHHHH
Ya thats right !! You liked what you saw back there. Man you must be like "holy facking shit that was amazing ! Damn that dish was like ghetto alright". Well you seen nothing yet !!
I present to you the Onion Surfer !! The Onion Surfer boosts your reception to up to 20-30% !! You go from 3 bars, to 4-5 bars in a flash !!! BIATCH !! Thats right, I bet you didn't see that coming !!.
What you need is:
Tinfoil - Kill the Tinman and cut him down if you need it
Paper - Kill Paperboy and steal his newspaper if you need it
Chopsticks - Kill Mr Miyagi from the "Karate Kid"and rob his old fat ass blind and after you got money of his corpse, go buy some chopsticks. Or you can just steal some but man, who wants to do that.
Rubberbands - Go rob Yoyo or something. Shit if you can't afford those you are too ghetto for me
Tape/glue the Tinfoil to the paper. Then shove the chopsticks through and bend the tinfoil glued paper till it makes a parabola. Then use the rubberband to mount it to your router's antennas. Remember to rotate the parabolas to the general direction of your computer for the best results.
AND FACKING WHALLAA !!! THE ONION SURFER
THIS IS NO WAY ASSOCIATED WITH THE "WIND SURFER". I CAME UP WITH THE IDEA FIRST AND IF YOU HEARD OTHERWISE THATS A FACKIGN LIE DAMNNN. Don't Even Think About Googling that !!!
Ya thats right !! You can't get anymore ghetto than this dawg. Next week I will show you how to make a fancy hat out of lard, feathers and a trash bag
Power supply Unit
How to choose your PSU?
When looking for a Power Supply, you have to decide on the wattage and the brand. Why do I say brand? A lot of PSU's do not advertise the true wattage that it puts out and some are very poor quality and have random fluxuating voltages which can fry your motherboard. I suggest these brands of PSU: Corsair, OCZ, Coolmaster, XFX or Antec Earthwatts
Also you should decide on what wattage of a power supply unit you want. The wattage will actually be determined by the video card you want to put into your computer (you should look at your video card's wattage requirement). I suggest at minimum 500W, average 650W and maximum 800W.
Installing the PSU:
PSU's are very easy to install. Open your case, put the power supply in its holding area (it will sit there), then just screw it in and your done.
The Types of Cables that come with a PSU
You have many types of power cables that comes with your PSU
4 pin - cpu power cord
6 pin - video cards and other PCI-e x 16 cards.
8 pin - for very power hungry video cards.
24 pin - Power to the motherboard.
Sata power connector - Plugs into DVD drives and Hard Drive.
Molex (4 pin peripheral)- plugins for fans, lights and cooling devices.
Mini Plug (4 pin FDD) - a very very small power plug that is used for some Floppy Drives
How to choose a Motherboard
The main factors that help people choose a motherboard is: CPU, RAM, Computer Case and Video Card Crossfire/SLI.
- Choose a motherboard that is compatible with your Processor (CPU)
- Do you want a DDR2 or a DDR3 ram compatible motherboard?
- Do you want to SLI or Crossfire your video cards? If so get a compatible motherboard for this
- Will it fit your case? ex.) ATX case will fit an ATX motherboard, mATX case will fit a mATX motherboard ...etc
Most computers nowadays come with 4 ram slots, 6-8 sata slots (for hard drive and dvd drives) and at least 1 pci-E x 16 (for the video card).
As for any suggest brands of motherboard: ASUS, Gigabyte, MSI and ASRock.. I am sure there are more but those are the ones I am familiar with.
How to Install Your Motherboard
First line up your motherboard with your case screw holes (mark screw holes with a felt). Then screw in your mobo bolts to the case (these help lift the motherboard from the case). In some cases, instead of using bolts they have elevated bumps in the side of the case (very rare though). Then place the motherboard ontop and screw it in.
Mark the screw holes. It will show you where to place the bolts
Left: Picture of a steel bolt | Right: Picture of Elevated Bumps for Motherboard Placement
Parts of the Motherboard:
CPU socket - Socket for Central Processing Unit aka carrys out all of the computers functions
RAM socket - Sockets for Random Access Memory - main memory which is available to programs to use. Not stored
IDE - use to be the only way of connecting hard drives and cd drives 10 years ago. Now the only practical use of an IDE drive is to attach a floppy drive to a computer (which is rarely used anymore except to install bios)
SATA - the primary way of connecting your DVD drives and Hard Drives.
PCI-e x 1, PCI-e x 16, PCI - connecting the computer peripherals like sound cards, network adapters, Tv tuners and video cards. Nowadays most TV tuners and Video cards run on PCI-e x 16. Network adapters and sound cards run on PCI-e x 1 or PCI slots.
CPU and Case Fan Socket -The 3 pin socket is for the case fan and the 4 pin socket is for the CPU fan.
4 Pin and 24 Pin power socket - The 4 Pin Power socket is actually the power source for your CPU. The 24 pin (its 20 pin for mATX motherboards) power socket is used to power the motherboard itself.
Installing the Power Plugs - Extremely Easy, even your Grandma can do it
Look for a 4 pin and 20/24 pin power cord and plug it into its corresponding sockets. Pretty self explanatory.
Left: 20/24 pin power socket for motherboard | Right: 4 pin power socket for CPU
Installing the Case Plugins: - Hardest part of Installing a motherboard
You now have to plug in the Power switch, Power LED (optional), Reset switch and Hard Drive LED connectors (optional). Each of those connectors will have either a + and - wire or one single +/- merged wire. For this part you have to look in your motherboard manual for the "Front Panel Connector"
Plug the corresponding wires into the corresponding socket. Each wire will look something like this (they are super tiny and the plugin is smaller than your finger nail !). Look on the motherboard manual to find where to plug them in.
Front Panel sockets and the wires connected to it
Note: Some cases do not have Power led or HDD led connectors. In fact you do not need to necessarily plug them in to have your computer to work.
As for USB and Front panel Sound Plugs, you also have to look in your motherboard manual to find where to plug them in. Only exception is that you just have one wire instead of several so it is pretty damn easy.
A USB connector. The USB connector socket is usually found near the Front Panel Sockets
Common Mistakes and Errors
Forgetting to plug in the 4 pin power cord :
This will result in your computer turning on but nothing showing on the monitor. When you press the power button, it will not turn off. This will immediately tell you its the 4 pin power cord issue.
Forgetting to plug in the 24 pin power socket:
It won't facking turn on and the motherboard LED will not light up.
Forgetting or incorrectly installing in the case plugins:
Pressing the power button will not start the computer, but the LED motherboard lights will light up when you turn the Power supply switch on.
Computer randomly shuts down:
-CPU fan socket is not plugged in.
-loose SATA cable (very common)
-insufficient power to motherboard/CPU/videocard (but if you follow this guide you will never have that problem in the first place).
Decided to make a series of guides because I was unbelievably stupid the first time building a computer. Almost fried my motherboard, bought the wrong case, the thing vrummed like a car and in the end I had to get some serious help lol. Heck even the second computer I just recently made had a lot of stupid little mistakes, but not that severe. Feel free to add on to this (anyone can make a suggestion through the guides and I will add to it)
Picture of an mATX and a small mid-ATX
The case is actually more important than you think and it will help determine the temperature regulation of your computer, and the amount and type of hardware/cooling you are able to put in there.
The most popular and most used type of case is the ATX-type case. There are three sizes of ATX you should know of:
$80 - 550 e-ATX: whopping huge f***ing computer
$20 - 300 ATX/mid-ATX: Mid to Large sized towers usually the best choice.
$20 - 200 mATX: Mini Computer
My Suggestion: ATX/mid-ATX tower
I suggest for most people to go with the ATX/mid-ATX tower. You can buy a decent ATX/mid-ATX case for $40-80. As for the other cases, the mATX cases are way to small to hold the newest series video cards and the restricted space probably wouldn't allow you to add any extra fans or good quality CPU heatsinks ( which would really limit your cooling capabilities ). They are also only compatible with mATX motherboards which don't have many pci-e or pci slots and no crossfire or SLI. e-ATX cases on the other hand is just too expensive for your average consumer. I mean damn... what a price jump for maybe 6-15 cm larger dimensions (some are even the same size as a couple large mid-ATX/ATX cases)
Some Great Budget ATX/mid-ATX cases $35-70:
$35 dollars after rebate - Azza Orion 201 - 90 mm fan on front and back (blue LED), 120 mm fan side (blue LED)
$41.99 - Logisys CS-51WBK - Comes with 80 mm back fan and a 450W psu. Slots for 120 mm side and front fans.
$49.99 - Thermaltake V3 Black Edition - 4 120 mm fan slots: Top, Front, Rear and Side. PSU placement at the bottom
$57.99 - Antec 300 Gaming Case - 5 120 mm fan slots !! 2 Front, 1 on Top, Side and Rear. Comes with removable air filters !!
$59.99 - Logisys Black Dracula II - 2 120 mm fans but makes up for it with an almost e-ATX sized BEAUTIFUL case.
$68.99 - Azza Helios 910 - It comes with a 230 mm side, 2 140 mm front and top, and 120 mm rear fan !!!! AWESOME
With your case, you will get mounting screws for your motherboard, PCI slots, HDs and media drives. Some cases come with fans already installed in them and some even come with a power supply unit (which I suggest you throw out because they are cheaply made and will fry your motherboard).
Things you need to think about before buying a fan:
Size - 80 mm, 92 mm, 120 mm
RPM - rotations per minute
CFM - cubic feet per minute - 80 mm (20-36 CFM), 92 mm (25 - 42 CFM), 120 mm (45-70 CFM)
dBA - decibel (how loud it is) ~ I wouldn't suggest buying fans labeled greater than 24 dBA (most fan dbA ratings are incorrect and have an error of +/- 2 to 10 dBa)
3pin - attaches to the motherboard
Molex/4pin - attaches directly to the power supply unit
Picture of a 3 pin Fan and next to it is a 3pin to Molex adapter
Motherboards can hold one fan (sometimes two depending on the motherboard. Some come with an extra 3 pin slot for ram cooling). A majority of your fans will run off of your PSU's molex connections. It is best to get the ones with molex adapters. As for RPM and dBA, to some degree they are related to one another (higher rotations, higher noise ...etc). RPM, # of fan blades and diameter of the fan will determine the CFM. All this info can be found on the fan manufacturers website if not labeled on the case.
Installing fans are very straightforward. They come with screws, you put the fan where there is an available fan mount on your computer case, and you screw the sucker in. There are screw slots on both sides of the fan but the side you mount it, will determine whether it is sucking air into the case or blowing air out. How can you tell which way it is blowing? There usually is an arrow on the side of the fan indicating the airflow.
Left: Arrows point the direction of fan rotation and of air flow | Right: Average steel fan screws and Rubber mount screws
Now we have to determine the fan layout in your case. The golden rule is: Bottom Front of the case is always an intake fan and Top Back of the case is always outtake. Reason: Hot air rises and most of the peripherals and the CPU is at the back of the case. This layout is very common in most cases.
Some optional fan slots that you should consider (and you may or may not have them depending on your case): The Top of the case will always be outtake and the base of the case will always be intake. As for the side fan slot, it is tricky business. The side fan will depend on where the fan is located relative to the CPU and peripherals.
Also just to note, your power supply also doubles as a fan since it pushes hot air out of the case.
Now that I finally finished my computer, I think its time I released some benchmarks on how well it performs.
This Vantage Marks are for a CPU and GPU that has not been overclocked. I will plan to clock them in the future.
PCMark 05 Vantage
Pretty much testing all aspects of the computer (from rendering graphics, website surfing, to HDD usage). I really don't know where my computer stands up compared to the average since they do not disclose the PCmark average for all computers tested. I just know that being able to install ET in 8-9 seconds is much much better than the time it took for my old computer and I am completely satisfied with what I got out of it XD.
Also I have just learned that here is a newer version of PCmark Vantage, but I have yet to try it.
The XFX HD 5770 was able to bench a few more marks than the HD 5770 benchmark standard on the FutureMarks Website and was exactly on par with the ATI HD 4870. The GTX 260 beat out both cards by 400 marks. Not a significant difference but a difference nevertheless.
And just to pull your G-string, the most powerful card on the market the HD5970 was able to bench a massive 24k which easily put any of these cards into the dust. Even if you overclocked to the extreme and crossfired or SLI any of these cards, you wouldn't stand a chance against a default setting of an HD5970.
Review: The Final Costs of My Computer
80 mm Antec Fan 34 CFM - $6.70
80 mm CoolMaster Fan + Blue LED -$5
92 mm Yale Loon Fan -$4.50
92 mm GELID 40 CFM Ultrasilent - $8.99
120 mm Fan + Blue LED - Came with Case
Logisys Case - $17
500 gb Seagate 7200 rpm SATA2 HD - $49.99
Logisys Dual Red Cathodes -$6
Antec Earthwatts 650W Power Supply -$59.99
Samsung SH-S243D/BEBE 24X Black DVD Writer - $19.99
Patriot Sector 5 4GB DDR3 -1333 CL 7-7-7-20 Dual Channel (2GB X 2) - $119.99
AMD Athlon II X4 620 - $108.99
MSI 790X-G45 ATX AM3 DDR3 CROSSFIRE - $89.99
XFX Radeon HD 5770 - $174.99
Total: $672.12 (Canadian Currency)
Thanks for reading this series of blogs. This is the last segment of Making My Own Rig. I will be doing more things in the future so keep your eyes posted for new entries.
I would like to give a big thanks to Number1Dad for giving me tips along the away and Thundercunt for helping me out with my fan flow and teaching me the basics of overclocking. I would also like to thank everyone who took some time to read my blogs
Today I unboxed a XFX HD 5770 which I bought at NCIX for a price of $174.99 Canadian
Unboxing it was really nothing special. You get this nice fancy box with a lot of shiny all over it. Inside is your video card, installation guide and crossfire wire + adapters.
Okay so first look at the video card and you can tell one thing.... it is quite solid and not a flimsy piece of junk (like that XFX HD4870). It has one exhaust vent that moves air outside of the case and side vents that push the remaining hot air into the case. The video card runs on a 6-pin power cable and is a lot more energy efficient than the 48XX series of cards. The size of the card itself is around 9 inches long which means it is a pretty standard card nowadays (the HD 5870 is around 11 inches).
Installation went quite smooth with Windows 7. First thing I did was test the fan speed. At 70% fan speed I could barely hear it over my case fans. Putting it at 100% fan speed sounded like someone is starting their car.
I don't really have any high end games to test it with so how I wouldn't really know how good it really is (ET and a bunch of Source based games that easily pushes over 200 FPS lawl). Its performance in games is slightly under to on par with a 4870 judging by online reviews. Pricewise it is the same price as the XFX HD 4870 1GB (The flimsy 4870 version) and $25 cheaper than another branded HD4870 1GB and Palit 260 GTX. Was it a good deal? Probably just average, but i really wanted to go for one of the newer cards on the market.
Also as for me I am finally done my comp. The total cost was $672.12 to be exact. $72 dollars more than my friends $600 dollar Canadian Gaming Rig but in return I have a DDR3 mobo and DDR3 ram.
Alright so I finally picked up my MOBO and CPU today.
I went with an Athlon II x4 620 for $108.99 and MSI 790X-G45 ATX AM3 Crossfire Motherboard for $89.99. Both are just average mobo + CPU compared to what is out there in todays market, but its good enough for me. When installing the CPU, you have to lift the safety arm, and then just drop the damn thing in. Afterwards close the safety arm and put the stock cooling on (no tube lube needed because the retail stock cooler already has the thermal compound on it). The mobo just screw the damn thing in but make sure you screw in the board lifts !! (i forgot one and the board was slanted =P).
I also replaced the yale loons rear fan i had with another one with higher CFM. I think the old fan might have a faulty bearing because i noticed it wiggles a bit when it rotates and didn't push that much air out (strange). If you see closely, i replaced the red fan with the blue one =D
So Everything is in, i plug in the case plugs (Power switch, Power led and Reset Switch. It has no HDD led lawl. Cheap case). The ATX 24 pin PSU cable to the Mobo is in and the sata cables for the dvd drive and hdd are in too.
Go to turn the facker on. Shit the fackers on !!! The usb power works, mobo board lights up, fans go, CPU fan goes and I go check the VGA slot on the back.......
FACKKKKK. Its a facking Female connection !! Most (almost all i see) were male VGA connectors on the back. This one is female? Wtf. So i got to buy a 12 dollar cable now D=. Since i want to save 12 bucks, i put in this cheap PCI graphics card that i ripped from my old computer.
So i try to test it instead by putting in this shitty 8400 gt PCI graphics card that came with my old comp (not PCI-e....PCI lawl) to check out the bios. I shove it in the PCI slot. The Video card fan goes, i hear it vrumming (so i know the mobo is working at least judging by the phase lights, turn on response, usb power, cpu fan, and pci voltage). Plug the VGA male to male cable in andddd.............nothingg. After an hr of going "WTH mate", I find out that I forgot to put in the 4 pin power cord next to the CPU D=.......
Okay and lastly I have to show you my fan layout. The intake fans have higher CFM than the output. So in the end more intake is occuring than output by around 10 CFM. I would say it is pretty even.
I also used Thundercunt's Fan layout as a reference. Thanks thundercunt =)
Alright so Number1Dad told me to try to do a stealth DVD Drive, so I am doing that right now
First thing I did was take the Drive Slot Plate and sand the snap-ons down.
Next thing I did was sand the hell out of the slot plate so it will easily move in and out of the DVD drive slot. Afterwards I used the handyman's secret weapon and some folded paper to fill up the empty volume of the slot. This way the DVD Drive and the plate will actually touch each other.
Also make sure to put some folded tape/paper in the area that the dvd open/close button is located. This way when you press the slot cover with your fingers, the DVD drive will actually open.
Then take some velcro strips (That red cathode kit gave me tons of it lol. I used the last strips I had), and put them on the cover of the dvd drive. You will have to unscrew the DVD drive and move it back a bit inorder to make the slot plate level with the front computer cover.
And whala your done
If you are wondering why the bottom plate under the DVD drive is missing, it is because it was interfering with how the dvd drive closes. I have to sand that down a bit.