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#1
The Smoke

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I am going to start this area off of the Lounge for topics that are more serious in nature or helpful for you guys.

Feel free to make useful comments or start a sub-topic on something you want to address.

 

 

The first topic I am going to start with is an easy one.

 

Care of your Water Heater.

 

Every six months hook a garden hose up to the water heater and open the valve and let it drain for about 10 seconds.

This flushes out the corrosion from the heater coils on electrics and the minerals from the gas heaters.

 

If you do this regularly your heater could last up to 5 years longer and work more efficiently; saving you money. 


Edited by Ol' Smoke, 07 August 2013 - 03:05 PM.



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#2
Chameleon

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Good tip, I am planning on buying a home soon.. Rather than renting.. This is good to know for home owners..

 

 

 

I also like the idea of this thread ;)



#3
The Smoke

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What to carry in your car for emergencies.

 

 

Blanket, soap, water, towels, tools (phillips #2 screwdriver, slot screwdriver, adjustable wrench, adjustable pliers, spark plug wrench and socket.)

Flashlight with batteries.  Either flares or triangles for marking road.  First aid kit,  eye wash. Twenty, one dollar bills and some quarters. Fuses.

 

These simple things can be a lifesaver if you have an accident or come upon one.  Or if you just break down.

 

Check your spare tire for proper inflation every 2 or 3 months.  A flat spare is worthless.

 

Here is something most people never do.  Practice changing a tire.  Follow your manual for your car and practice it several times, so you can do it.

 

Always have paper towels handy in the car.  Have a notepad and pencil handy to write things down:  Like license plates and descriptions.



#4
The Smoke

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How to save money on water bill.

 

If you have single handle faucets, don't use the left (hot) one all the time to wash your hands or something mundane.

Every time you open that tap it puts cold water into the water heater.  Then water heater has to heat more often.

 

Here is a great tip for saving a lot of water.

 

Get a 3 gallon plastic pail and keep it in the shower.  When you first get ready to shower and turn the hot water on to get

it hot for the shower, place the pail under it to capture the cold water that comes first.

 

Then set it aside and use it to water plants, wash car or flush the toilet.  Yes you can actually flush the toilet by pouring the

water from the pail into the toilet.  This just saved you a gallon of water.  If you do it all the time, it could add up to over 30

gallons of saved water every month per person.  If you have a family, that could add up to a lot of money.

 

To save on electricity and water with your dish washer.  Use a pail at the kitchen sink and turn on the hot water tap and let

the water go into the pail until it gets really hot.  Then turn on the dish washer.  This will save the dish washer from having

to reheat cold water to begin it's cycle.  Save the water in the pail to flush the toilet.

 

I have a family here in my town that I taught how to do this.  They save over $60 a month doing this.  Now they are teaching

others.



#5
Shinobi

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More like Smokes survival guide to life hahaha thx man good tips



#6
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You should change this Topic's Title to "Ol' Smokes Serious Lounge" or "Sage Ol' Smokes Lounge".



#7
The Smoke

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The truth about Motor Oil Changes and Gas additives

 

There is going to be a whole lot of controversy over this one, but what I am telling you is true.

In today's modern cars with unleaded gas and cleaner burning engines, you don't have to change

the oil in your car every 2000 or 3000 miles.  You can go 7500 between oil changes.

 

My wife's Ford Fusion is only to have the oil changed every 10,000 miles.

 

The only reason those oil change places tell you 2k or 3k, is that they want to sell their product.

Those oil change places are owned by the oil companies. So there ya go.

 

Gas additives.  I used to rebuild a lot of engines and I have seen them inside and out.  There are

some additives that actually work and other that are a waste of time.  The best on the market is

a product called  "Seafoam".  I use this stuff in every engine I operate.  It actually keeps the fuel

system running like brand new.  Every 6 months I pour some into the tanks of my vehicles to

get the varnish out of the fuel system.  You can get it at most auto places, but I find it at NAPA.

When I got my 2003 Chevy pickup it didn't run so good.  I poured some of this stuff down the throat

of the engine, and the smoke just rolled out of the tailpipes. After three or four applications it

stopped smoking and the engine started running much smoother.  I then poured some into the

gas tank for the next two months and now she purrs like a brand new engine.  I have over 97,000

on that engine and it is still strong.

So you try it.  There are two types:  a spray and a can.  I just use the can type.



#8
UAdave

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Very true on the oil changes. My 02 has an oil life gauge and I get around 6K before an oil change. My wife's '12 gets around 8K no problem.


I've also great things about Seafoam as well, no complaints and works great.

#9
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The truth about Motor Oil Changes and Gas additives
 
There is going to be a whole lot of controversy over this one, but what I am telling you is true.
In today's modern cars with unleaded gas and cleaner burning engines, you don't have to change
the oil in your car every 2000 or 3000 miles.  You can go 7500 between oil changes.
 
My wife's Ford Fusion is only to have the oil changed every 10,000 miles.
 
The only reason those oil change places tell you 2k or 3k, is that they want to sell their product.
Those oil change places are owned by the oil companies. So there ya go.
 
Gas additives.  I used to rebuild a lot of engines and I have seen them inside and out.  There are
some additives that actually work and other that are a waste of time.  The best on the market is
a product called  "Seafoam".  I use this stuff in every engine I operate.  It actually keeps the fuel
system running like brand new.  Every 6 months I pour some into the tanks of my vehicles to
get the varnish out of the fuel system.  You can get it at most auto places, but I find it at NAPA.
When I got my 2003 Chevy pickup it didn't run so good.  I poured some of this stuff down the throat
of the engine, and the smoke just rolled out of the tailpipes. After three or four applications it
stopped smoking and the engine started running much smoother.  I then poured some into the
gas tank for the next two months and now she purrs like a brand new engine.  I have over 97,000
on that engine and it is still strong.
So you try it.  There are two types:  a spray and a can.  I just use the can type.

I have been using seafoam for years. It is the best without question. Put it in your crankcase or fuel tank and it works miracles. They also make a tranny treatment that I have heard good things about.

+1 for this post.

#10
The Smoke

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Front wheel drive car tire rotation.

 

When I worked for Goodyear I learned all there is to know about car tires and how they work.

Here is a simple thing that no one will ever tell you about your front wheel drive car and how to

do a proper rotation.

 

Never - Never -Never rotate the tires on a front wheel drive car!     Why?

 

You will spend more for tires in 40,000 miles than you need to.  Here  is the proper way to do this.

 

Leave the rear tires alone.  Keep the front tires inflated at the proper rate and keep your alignment in check.

When the front tires wear out, buy just 2 tires for the front.  If you have a full size spare,  then buy one just like

it, and put them on the front.  Then take one of the old tires, and use it for the spare.  That way, when you get

to about 40,000 miles, you only have to buy 1 or 2 tires, to go the next 30 or 40,000 miles.  Most likely you will

get a new car before then.

If you rotate the tires during the first 40,000 miles, you will buy (4) four tires.

 

The rear tires only go round and round and the sidewalls get used to that.  The front tires get used to cornering

and powering.  If you keep rotating them, the sidewalls eventually break down.  Now the rear tires will go 80,000

if they aren't messed with and you keep them inflated.  

 

Why doesn't the tire people tell us this?  Money.  Why would you tell people to only buy one tire when they can

buy four?

 

 

If you see any signs of abnormal wear on the front, see to it immediately.  Here are some things to look for:

 

If the inside edge of both tires seems more warn than the outside:  you are toed out too much.  Get an alignment.

 

If the outside edge of both tires seems more warn than the inside:  you are toed in too much.  Get an alignment.

 

If one of the tires shows wear on the outside or inside only, you have too much or too little camber, Get an alignment.

 

If the steering wheel is crooked,  get an alignment.  If you keep driving a car with the wheel crooked, the steering box

is always in a turn.  If you have power steering that means the pump is always under pressure.  Not a good thing.

 

If the tire shows wear evenly on the outside edges, the tire is under-inflated.  If it show the center wearing out

then it is over-inflated.

 

I hope this helps.

 

I forgot to mention one thing about car tires.  They aren't the same.  The next time you go to a tire center, ask for a

depth gauge.  Then check the depth of the tread on that tire that you are looking to purchase.  Now go to several

other tire places and do the same.  You will find that some of the cut rate tires have less rubber.  Sometimes as much

as 1/8" or 2 mm.  The government has standards as to how much rubber must be on a new tire.  But they allow up to

2mm difference as part of that standard.  So if you go to one tire place and find a tire for $10 less, check to see if it has

the same amount of tread height.  Remember, those 30,000 or 40,000 mile warranties are based on scientific studies in a

lab under perfect conditions.  The warranties are there to make you come  back and buy more of their tires.


Edited by Ol' Smoke, 11 August 2013 - 09:41 AM.


#11
Jhonny/Shinobi

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!!!WE WANT MORE !!! (it has been a month, you know :P )

 

 

 

 

 



#12
The Smoke

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Okay here is something I have used for years and it costs  NOTHING.

 

It is a top rated Harddrive defrag software and it's absolutely free.  The only thing is...be sure to read each screen carefully when installing the product.

There is a check box that needs to be unchecked, so that some other product is not loaded onto your harddrive.  You will see it.

 

Go here to download it.

 

http://www.auslogics...re/disk-defrag/



#13
Jhonny/Shinobi

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Okay here is something I have used for years and it costs  NOTHING.

 

It is a top rated Harddrive defrag software and it's absolutely free.  The only thing is...be sure to read each screen carefully when installing the product.

There is a check box that needs to be unchecked, so that some other product is not loaded onto your harddrive.  You will see it.

 

Go here to download it.

 

http://www.auslogics...re/disk-defrag/

 

:thanks and keep the tips coming 8-)



#14
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:yeye :yeye :yeye



#15
The Smoke

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I was going to write this a little later but I think it is time.

 

LAWNMOWER CARE

 

It doesn't matter how much you pay for a lawnmower, if you let it sit dirty, it will rot.

During the dry summer months we relax a little on the care of our lawnmowers.  We mow..we put it away.

And that is okay for the most part.  But here is something you may not know.  Decaying grass gives off

CO2.  CO2 will cause metal fatigue around an area where the rotting grass is located.  Farmers have

known this for years.

So here is what I do.  After every mow of the yard, I wash the entire mower clean.  If I have to, I use a scraper

inside the cutting area to get the grass out.  Once I get it clean, I spray WD40 on the blade and crank shaft.

I then start the mower and let it run for about a minute.  I store my mowers in a little barn with lots of air going

thru it.  The air is important.  If it doesn't get airflow, the metal will rust.

Every winter when you know you are not going to be using the mower, give it a full clean and get it dry.  Spray

all the metals with WD40.  Change the oil and the spark plug, but don't start the mower.  Instead spray WD40

into the cylinder when the spark plug is removed and pull the starter cable slowly until the piston has gone up

and done one full stroke.  Then spray the cylinder again lightly and install the spark plug.

Now, take the fuel line loose from the carb and drain all the gas into a jar.  Leave the fuel cap slightly open and the

end of the fuel line open.  On most carbs there is a drain plug at the bottom of the bowl.  Open that and let all the gas

drain out.  Insert the plug but leave it loose on the threads so air can dry the carb.  The reason you do this is that

today's ethanol gas will gum up in about 2 months and it will capture and hold water.  Neither of these is good for

engines.  If you have an old bed sheet, throw it loosely over the mower to keep dust and bugs out of the engine.

If you have a rear bagger model, remove the bag and prop open the door to let air circulate through there.

In the spring when you start to mow again, just redo all the things I said here.  Put the hoses on, tighten plugs,

and put it back together.  But, before you start mowing, re-sharpen the blade.  A good cross hatch file will make a

razor out of the blade.  I re-sharpen every other month**.  There is a way to know when you need to sharpen your

blade.  After you have mown the yard, wait two days and go look at the grass.  If the top edges of the grass are brown

and dead and kinda rough looking, then you need to sharpen.  The blade is just tearing off the top of the grass instead

of slicing it cleanly.  Just like a dull shaving blade.  So there ya go.

I have done this with my lawn mower and I bought it in 1985.  I just replaced the engine this year. That's 28 years of

mowing.  I have a neighbor who is on his 4th mower since 1979.

 

**If you don't have a shop or tools, take the blade to a lawn mower repair place.  I have 4 blades that I rotate so there

is always a nice sharp one ready to go.   Now, I tried those sharpeners you see in Walmart and places.  The one that

says all you do is roll it back and forth on the blade while it is still on the mower.  Sounds great....don't work worth a shit.

 

So there ya go.  Thanks for reading.






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